不只是臭鳜鱼,这里还有意想不到的美味
时间:2018-01-08 18:45:22阅读:66010次来源:电影码头 1/6
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徽商,在中国这片古老的土地上名震四方,作为徽商的发源地,徽州是那些无奈心酸与功成名就的起点。本周日晚21:00,深圳卫视治愈系美食纪录片老恒和《宅人食堂》第三季带着留白寒舍老板夫妇一道,来到了千千万万徽商梦想开始的地方,追寻记忆深处最暖心的味道。用一道徽菜,勾起漂泊游子的浓浓乡情,安抚未归旅人对家乡深深的思念。
最难忘怀是乡味
吉林和凯妹是留白寒舍的老板,计划着在民宿内开伙深夜食堂,此次受到宅人食堂的邀请寻味徽菜,恰合了二人心意。徽菜,即徽州菜简称,是中国传统的八大菜系之一,起源于古徽州,有着数百年的历史。徽菜的发展,是和徽商的兴衰相伴相生的。原本是徽商出身的汪磊,是吉林和凯妹探访的第一位徽菜大厨。汪师傅在外漂泊多年,为了追寻童年的舌尖滋味,回到了家乡。
徽菜的特别之处在于它对食材的严苛要求。徽地盛产山珍野味河鲜家禽,就地取材使菜肴地方特色突出并保证鲜活。梅圣俞诗曰:“雪天牛尾狸,沙地马蹄鳖”。单是听名字,就知这菜,非徽地不能烹也。对于汪磊来讲,只有徽地独产的新鲜而地道的食材,才能做出一道道正宗的徽州美味,才能唤起舌尖遥远的记忆。
火腿、葛粉、冬瓜干,徽人出身的凯妹把让它们往嘴里一放,味蕾就被攻陷,家乡的往事也随着那些味道一并涌来。邻里的寒暄,递过的零嘴,同龄的伙伴,徽州老家的木门,好像一下子就被推开了。道地的食材,凝聚着汪师傅对待家乡滋味的赤诚与执着,这一集,不仅见证徽菜的鲜香美味,更带你一起见证一饭一蔬的来之不易。
是家常滋味,也是精致礼物
徽州臭鳜鱼、黄山双石、毛峰里脊丝、徽州泉水丸子,这都是徽系名菜,也是云门山居掌门人程志强的拿手菜。
臭鳜鱼做好的秘诀是火,黄山双石最重要的是保证汤的原味,毛峰里脊看的是刀工和上浆滑油。程师傅每一步都不马虎,一道道菜的烹饪过程,在程师傅的手里,成为一幕幕视觉盛宴。他说作为一名厨师,把控好每一环节是最基本的。对每一样食材、每一道工序都怀有敬畏之心,才能把每一道菜都做好。他心目中的“深夜食堂”除了是家常味道,还应该是端在食客们面前的精致礼物。
镜头带我们探寻的这位徽菜非遗传承人,究竟认真是到了何种地步,连食客也叹为观止呢?
徽菜中的野趣
桃花流水鳜鱼肥,这鱼究竟有多肥?吉林和凯妹在刘芸甫的带领下,来到山野,亲眼瞧到了即将下肚的食材乐于奉献的一生。
刘芸甫做菜的笋是问政山在秋季盛产的鞭笋。它的前端部分细长似鞭,故而得名。又称鞭梢,笋鞭。外包坚硬的笋壳,形状尖削,穿透力甚强,但笋肉色泽洁白,清鲜醇香,可以烹饪出多种美味可口的菜品,可荤可素,老少皆宜,是徽州当地极具特色,徽民们常用的食材之一。镜头里三人迎着夕阳下山,除了刚挖好的新鲜边笋,收获更多的是三人对问政山这片神奇土地的敬仰和感叹。为了做一道毛峰虾仁,刘芸甫不辞辛苦地到茶山上掐下一芽芽最嫩的茶尖,毛峰入菜,不仅给舌尖送了一丝清新,也给做菜的过程平添了一分乡野之趣。
葵花斫肉又究竟是什么?吉林和凯妹在亲眼见到之前,也从未了解过被冠了这般雅名的肉圆究竟有何玄机。其貌不扬的萝卜苗在刘师傅的巧手里几下摆弄,就变成了葵花,让人大开眼界
本周日晚21:00,深圳卫视治愈系美食纪录片老恒和《宅人食堂》第三季带你走进徽地,感受认真烹出的乡味与野趣。
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